Sigma Lens Manufacturer

Sigma Lens Manufacturer Resource

Sigma Lens Manufacturer Resource in Q&A

Is Sigma lens on a Canon body recommended? Hi Friends, I have a Canon Rebel XTi along with 2 lenses : a Canon 28-85 IS and Sigma 18-200 f3.5-6.3 . From my brief observation, when I try to shoot in automatic mode, the images from Sigma lens are darker as compared to from the Canon lens. This cases me to use manual mode for 99% of my shooting. In fact, when I am on the traveling places, I prefer to use my point and shoot during day time - as it captures the right colors and right exposure instantly, while I would have to figure them out in Manual mode, which takes quiet some time. So my question is - Is this normal. Is this the reason why Lenses from the same manufacturer as the camera body are recommended.

Jus_Ben replied: "This can happen with almost any lens, I don't know about the Canon camera, - I use a Sony, but one lens I have, I set the camera to give a plus 1 exposure when I use it. Can you do that with the Canon?"

cabbiinc replied: "Your problem may be from your f/6.3 aperture as much as it being a Sigma. Sigmas arent known for their brilliance, but that lens having an aperture of only f/6.3 at 200mm is very limiting. As the other gentleman suggested, press the A/V button and roll the wheel to the plus side and you will shoot brighter. Its just compensating for what you have."

Brent Y replied: "It can happen with any lens - but I don't think the small aperture is the issue, rather it is the in-camera metering. It is quite possible that the Sigma lens is not 100% compatible with the newermetering on your XTi, OR it also might have to do with the narrower/wider FOV - but sometimes certain lenses simply need a consistent exposre bump as compared to others. Your XTi DOES have the capability of adding exposure; try adding it a third of a stop at a time, experimenting with different scenes, until you find the exposure adjustment value that gives you best results. Now if you cannot get consistent results, then I'd say you have a compatibility issue, but most likely you'll find adding a set value will be the "meter adjutment" you need for that lens."

JOE? replied: "Have you folks ever heard of a Grey scale? It can be used to "dial in your lenses" so you can make the needed compensation every time.Shoot a roll of film using half the frames photographing with your canon lens,half with the sigma.Bracket your exposures 5 up 5 down,print them up and compare them to the Grey scale.Make sure to record your exposure time and f stop for each exposure.when you find the 2 that match the Grey scale you'll have your compensations factor for your sigma lens."

Which telephoto lens to buy? I am looking in the market for a nice complement to my stock 18-135 MM lens on my Nikon d80. I was looking for something around 70-300MM (with the 1.5x crop factor, would give me enough zoom), and came across 2 candidates: The Nikon 70-300MM f/4-5.6G Lens: and the Sigma 70-300MM f/4-5.6 DL-M lens: I was siding with the Nikkor because I am a big fan of first-party lenses, but I know Sigma is a pretty reputable lens manufacturer. If given a choice, which would you go with? Take in mind once again I own a d80. Bonus question: Is it really worth the extra 350 bucks for the VR version of the Nikkor lens with a f/4.5-5.6 rating? Or would a 55-200MM VR be sufficient as well? >

Mere Mortal replied: "Long, variable maximum aperture zooms tend to produce sub-par images, especially in contrast and color. Recommend a prime for longer focal lengths if image quality is a concern. *** If budget is a concern then go with the Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G AF Nikkor. You have a great idea to stay OEM. I would add stay FX as well."

fhotoace replied: "There are some other attributes the 70-300 mm VR has beyond the image stabilization. It is NOT a DX lens, which means you can use it on your old 35 mm Nikon SLR and new D700 or D3 Nikon's. It is also much sharper than its predecessor the Nikon 70-300mm f/4-5.6G More on the 70-300 mm VR If you are tempted to buy the non-VR version, look first to the fine 55-200 mm VR. Before you buy any lens, take some test shots using your personal camera and see which lens you like the best."

RuthAnn replied: "First two answers are good ones. Just remember it is the photog behind the lens that counts the most. So if money is an issue go with the cheaper lens if it is comparable to the higher priced model. A good photographer can take great pictures no matter what kind of equipment in in his or her hands."

Should I buy my DSLR with the kit lens or body only? I'm looking to buy my first DSLR. I'm a bargain hunter, but I'm also paranoid of getting scammed. Thus, it usually takes me weeks to buy anything off ebay or craigslist. I'm probably going to end up with a open box nikon d80 or canon xti from henrys.com's ebay store. There's also a good chance it'll be the body only (comes with everything, cept a lens). Should I just go for a kit lens and forget about getting body only since I'm only beginning digital photography? Or is getting a body only (if that's where the deal comes from) and then a lens (probably standard 18-55 or 135) okay too? Am I even making any sense? Ha. I hope I explained my dilemma properly. *** oh, and while I'm kind of on the subject, do you think going tamron/sigma lens would be okay? Or should I stick with the camera's manufacturer lenses... is it a big deal at this point?

_ replied: "I've noticed that the manufacturers lenses cost more than the tamron/sigma's . I'd probly go for the D80 as I heard the D60's were a good camera. I personally have two Sigmas and they are good lenses however I would go for the twin lens pack if you can. 18-55 is good plus one that goes to 200 or so. I've got an 18-125 and a 70-300 on my DSLR but the big zoom doesn't get heaps of use as it needs a tripod to avoid camera shake."

Brittany K replied: "Well I am also thinking of getting my first slr camera... and I think that if you truly are getting serious about it, maybe just paying a few more dollars for the brand new thing is better. I personally think that being a beginner, a kit lens is so much better... I was talking to someone about this and many people agree and dissagree but it's ultimately your decision. Other lenses are hundreds more but you will get better photos. in my opinion, I want to get used to a camera and it's stock lense before spending 500$ on another lense and not knowing what I'm doing. I don't think photography is that cheap either.. :P good luck!"

sparky replied: "Henry's is a good reputable dealer, I've bought from them online and in their stores. The kit lens is a good starter lens (and you will need something to start). I have the 18-70mm which came with my D80, then I bought the 70-300(I've had no issues with camera shake). Later I bought(from Henry's) a sigma 18-200mm which is the lens that stays on my camera 90% of the time as it's a good multi-purpose lens for wide angle landscapes and decent zoom. I bought mine new for just under $500. but you can visit Henry's online store as they sell lot's of good quality used lenses too. I don't have the budget for exclusively Nikon lenses but I've used Sigma and Tamron and they both make decent third party lenses for much less than nikon. If you're not planning to make a living at it(and even if you are) then you'll do just fine with sigma or tamron."

bridget t replied: "If you're only a beginner you are probably going to want to upgrade once you get better anyway I would go the cheap body off the net and then go buy a cheap lens...make sure its compatible, take your body to the camera shop and say what can you do me.. I'm nervous about the internet especially buying cameras and especially buying second hand lens'! you can't see little scratches or wear and then there's the shipping..I know its mostly a stupid irrational fear because the internet is safe and blah blah blah...but I just like the idea of going into a shop and seeing something testing it out deciding if thats the model I even like the feel of...(Id like those canon 300/350D's for a rival) .. Id go into a camera shop and ask them to match the price you got online first.. :-)"

anthony h replied: "Get the body with the kit lens. You'll want to be able to use your camera when you get it, and the kit lens covers the most used focal lengths for common picture taking. If you get the body, you just compound the problem, because you have to make a separate lens purchase. Since it takes you weeks to get anything, you'll have a body without a lens just doing nothing. And your savings, if there are any, will be meager if at all. If you're just starting out, you want to hit the ground running, not buy a piece here or a piece there. Buying body only makes sense if you *already* have lenses. But since you're starting out, you know you're going to have to get one. And since you're a beginner, you will find the variety of choices overwhelming and confusing--so keep it simple and get the body with the kit lens. And I would stick with the manufacturer lenses until you know enough to know when and why you should buy a Tamron or Sigma."

is there a difference between image stabilization and optical stabilization for a canon DSLR camera? i just bought a sigma lens with 'optical stabilization' for my Canon Rebel camera. I had intended to buy one with 'image stabilization. are these two thesame thing with different manufacturers using different terms for the same feature?

Elvis replied: "go to howstuffworks.com to find out"

species736 replied: "Different terms for the same feature."

Nick N replied: "Canon only offers "Image Stabilization" through it's lenses, so in a sense optical stabilization is the same thing. If canon were to add "IS" through their camera bodies the high price "IS" lenses would go obsolete. You will be very saitisfied with your stabilized lense, they usually allow you to shoot your pics a few stops slower and get nice clear images. canon offers - image stabilization sigma offers - optical stabilization"

JBT replied: "These are two different terms for the same thing. Image stabilization got its start in camcorders, and it was achieved by digitally zooming in on the subject. While this worked, it made the image look pixelated and blocky. That's why the term "optical image stabilization" came about: it's saying that you're not getting any of this reduced quality digital zoom crapola in your image, which is a good thing. Canon cameras use only optical image stabilization, whether or not it's labeled "optical." Enjoy your new lens!"

Who are the lesser-known Digital lenses manufacturers out there? I am looking for names and websites of lesser known digital lenses manufacturers for "Digital Single Lens Reflex Camera (DSLR's)". Regardless of the country of origin. Here, I am not talking about brands such as Canon, Pentax, Sigma, Tamron, Vivitar, Olympus brands. However, if they do make lenses for Pentax and Samsung DSLR's cameras it's a plus. Phoenix is new to me, but the other one falls within the "such as". I want the names of independent lens makers or brands. Current makers... less known now.

Long Duration photography and Star Trails? I've found myself focusing more and more on night time photography and have had a great time shooting pictures of the moon, sunsets and "light pollution" illuminating night time clouds. I want to start shooting star trails. I've been using a Sigma APO 400mm for moon shots and a 50-200mm Nikon AF-S VR for sunsets and cloud photos. But I dont have a good prime lens and all the reading that I'd done has indicated that the one thing you'll want is a good wide angle prime. What would be a god choice for a hobbiest like me? I own a Nikon D60 and would need an AF-S Nikkor lens or an HSM Sigma lens. I'm open to Tamrons and other popular 3rd party options but, am not familiar with enough with those manufacturers to know which type would allow me to autofocus with my D60.

Do you forsee full-frame sensors on advanced point&shoot cameras? I know the Sigma DP1 has a large sensor. But I've often wondered why manufacturers don't (or can't) put larger sensors in point-and-shoots. I mean, the body size of some of the super-zoom cameras is pretty close to a small DSLR; I'd love to get say, the Leica zoom lens used in the Panasonic Lumix line coupled with a larger Foveon-style sensor. Why wouldn't this make sense? EDIT* Bubbles, good point about the crop factor. But even an APS sized sensor would still allow good zoom range with a lens like the Leica that's on the FZ18.-- "The Leica-designed 18x (28-504mm equiv. F2.8-3-3)" I'd love to approach the smooth highlights and low noise of my DSLR with the convenience of a great super-zoom lens- perfect for travel. I think it'll happen- look at the resolution of the Canon G-10. >

Ektar 100, 120 Format replied: "Yes, on advanced point and shoot cameras. As digital matures and gets even more competitive I see manufacturers abandoning any ties to old film formats, especially with cameras that have non-removable lenses. At some point digi P&S cameras will likely have sensors, in area, that are bigger than current 35mm digital cameras. I look forward to cameras that have flexible sensors in them that you can bend for nifty effects. And cameras with huge wide sensors made especially for panoramics. Oh, yeah, and cameras with a light splitter to expose two sensors for true 3D playback in wearable "photo albums" for the eyes. Digital has just begun!!"

Lover not a Fighter replied: "Most people don't understand the advantages of FF sensor. They only know numbers like MegaPixel. And to a point it is the manufacturers' fault for promoting that. Even if they did create FF P&S, if they increase sales doesn't justify the added expense of production, then they would not continue to produce them. === I speak to lots of people about cameras, and most people (especially women and artist types) buy cameras based on how pretty the camera and color are (not how good the pictures are). And then complain later the pictures suck. there are people who research info on DPreview. But for the most part I have to assume that is the exception. good luck..."

Bubbles replied: "From my understanding, putting full-frame sensors would definitely reduce the limited telephoto capabilities of point-and-shoot cameras. I was reading PopPhotography and they were talking about full-frames. Because regular point-and-shoot cameras don't have full-frame sensors, if gives them a bigger crop factor, allowing them to effectively 'zoom in' farther rather then using a full-frame sensor and cropping and reducing resolution. If you have a fixed lens, I think that is a pretty good thing. On the other hand they could always just increase the zoom on the camera, probably cost a heck of a lot more though."

electrosmack1 replied: "It might make sense up front, but what's likely keeping manufactures from producing cameras with FF sensors is because they figure who would buy it; at least for the time being. Most people who would value having the small size of a point and shoot camera would not want to pay a few thousand dollars for it. And those who value having a FF sensor probably would not want to have or invest in a new much smaller camera body. Also considering such a camera would need, if it accepted it, a brand new line of specially designed lenses. Maybe in the future, but the price would have to come down drastically."

Candid Chris replied: "Sure! And 100x optical zoom, automatic radio transfer of files to PC, built-in photo-editing and robots that fly so you don't need to carry it. For course I also foresee 10,000 QPM on YA about prettiness. Cost - Marketing to answer your ?'s."

Babystomper replied: "I don't. 1. The larger sensors are significantly more expensive. 2. It defeats the idea of a point and shoot to have a large advanced sensor for a camera that most users would not use for serious work."

David M replied: "I don't see it anytime soon. I have a few reasons for this. One is cost. Full frame sensors cost a lot of money. There just aren't that many people out there willing to pay for a full frame sensor on a point and shoot camera. The other reason and this is a big one is that the cameras would have to be much larger if you wanted any kind of zoom. The lens you mentioned above on a full frame camera is very large and heavy. The Canon 500mm F4 is 15 inches long and ways 8.5 pounds. Do you really want this on a point and shoot camera. There may be in the near future a camera like the Sigma DP1 that will have a full frame sensor. This camera uses an APS-C sized sensor and has fixed focal length 28mm lens. No zoom is available."

Edwin replied: "There is one major reason for not using a FF sensor in a P&S camera - cost. Even if FF becomes the standard sensor on future DSLR's (which I predict it will) thus driving the costs down, the cost compared to the sensor used in a P&S will still be prohibitive for the intended market. You need to remember that the majority of people who buy a P&S are not overly concerned with picture quality. If they can distinguish Aunt Sally from Uncle Ralph they're happy."

Nathan G replied: "Why would that be necessary? For a point and shoot camera to have a full framed sensor? Wouldn't the point and shoot still have limitations since it's still a point and shoot camera after-all? I think that for the money that would cost you, it would be a better idea just to get a digital SLR. I think that making a cheaper, lighter full framed digital SLR is a better idea, but what do i know?"

c_j_ryan replied: "Besides the cost of the ff sensor, as others have pointed out, the optics would also have to be redesigned (more cost). Given the depth of p&s's it seems to me it would be extremely difficult to get a 3/4 inch thick body/lens combo to focus enough light on the sensor to make a worthwhile improvement. I mean really, I have a few old 35mm point and shoots, my Pentax IQzoom 160 comes to mind, but just because it was "full frame" the pictures it took were no where near as good as my SLR. So, if the G-10, has the ability to take shots like that, why bother going full frame? I'm sure just like "Moores Law" on CPU's, engineers will continue to figure out how to jam more Mpxl's and better micro-lenses on smaller sensors for some time to come! I do like some of the other answers though! Forward thinking!"

Dawg replied: "It's simple economics. They HAVE to keep the Advanced P&S cameras from properly competing with the DSLR's so until the DSLR make some huge advances then the P&S can't have a better sensor or no one would have reason to (except those that make their living in photography) buy a DSLR and there are a lot more non-pro DSLR owners out there than pros....a matter of progression yes?"

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